Electronic Ignition Kits  

Fitting instructions for electronic distributor and coil kits CST9003, 9005, 9012 & 9013 

Following extensive dyno testing over many years, I decided to drop the transistorised switch ignition kits that just replace the points to a full and proper electronic ignition. The difference in sparking power and performance is significant. This kit comprises an all-new distributor with electronic ignition module and required 1 ohm resistance coil. 
To fit, set engine to firing on cylinder number one - piston no.1 (closest to coolant pump) at top dead centre, rocker arms loose (those on number 4 cylinder rocking inlet and exhaust valves). Remove existing distributor and coil, if/where fitted. Fit new coil. Fit new distributor with rotor arm pointing towards no.1 cylinder. The cables from the distributor connect to the coil red to the positive (+ve) side of the coil, the black cable to the negative (-ve) side. An ignition switched 12 volt power supply should be connected to the positive (+ve) side of the coil. Do not connect any of the cables that relate to the original points triggering system. Assemble clamp and tighten a little, but loose enough to be able to rotate the distributor. Rotate crankshaft anti-clockwise (from front/coolant pump end) around 3/8”/10,0mm. Rotate distributor so the blade of the trigger is in the centre of the module. This will be around 8 to 10 degrees of static advance and will allow the engine to start and run so a strobe light can be used to set the correct/required ignition timing. Tighten the distributor retaining clamp. Re-check/re-set once the engine is at full running temperature. 
Initial suggested ignition timing - 
CST9012 & 9013 with vacuum advance - 10 degrees @ 1,000rpm, vacuum pipe disconnected 
CST9003 & 9005 - 12 to 13 degrees @ 1,000rpm. 
Rev counter connection. 
If the tachometer fitted reads erratically, reads OK to a certain rpm then reads incorrectly, or feasibly too high when the engine is running it may well require a resistor fitted in the cable from the negative (-ve) side of the coil to the tachometer. The type of tachometer will determine the level of resistor required. Unfortunately there is no hard and fast rule for this. Typically a 10K ohm ½ watt resistor works in a majority of cases, particularly on earlier variants. If that does not cure the problem, a higher resistance one will be needed. Try a 15K ohm ½ watt resistor. If still not quite right, a 20K ohm ½ watt one. 
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